What I'm Eating: November Edition
A few recipes to warm you up as the days go darker and weather colder...
We’ve had an unusually warm autumn in Istanbul. Or, perhaps it’s the new normal. I remember showing some people from Norway around Istanbul during the first week of November 2019. They wore shorts.
Locals, of course, have long since put away the summer wardrobe, now as they had four years ago. Even as we still enjoyed a sunny 25°C (77°F) just a few days ago. Come September, black jeans and t-shirts replace the summer gear. By October, the coats are on. Regardless of the weather. It’s as if people are living by the date of the calendar rather than considering the weather outside.
As soon as the temperature dips below 20°C (68°F), the unmistakable smell of something burning fills the air, as the last few households that haven’t yet switched to gas for heating start burning whatever they’ve collected since last winter to keep the living room at, for a Norwegian, shockingly hot temperatures. Children disappear from the streets as their mothers worry about them getting colds in the “cold” weather.
Although late summer has been prolonged, the produce seasons march on. What’s on offer at the markets has changed almost entirely in the last month. Long gone are the sweet fruits of summer. No more peaches or figs until 2024. Tomatoes, though available, are no longer worth buying. If you haven’t already preserved your own for the winter, you’ve got to settle for tomato paste for the next six months.
Slowly, the winter crops make their way. Pumpkin, of course, though in Turkey it’s only really used for desserts. Celeriac (celery root). Carrots. Apples and pears. The first oranges and clementines are also here, though it’ll be a while before they’re more sweet than sour.
In the kitchen, my cooking has changed. while I do my utmost to avoid the oven during the summer, it’s now in daily use. Salads have been replaced by braises and stews. All themes that I’m sure sound familiar wherever you are in the world. Contrary to what seems to be popular belief, we don’t have eternal summer by the Mediterranean, either.
Below, I’ve gathered a few things I like to cook at this time of year. Four of them are from the blog and free for all, while paying subscribers get an additional and absolutely delicious recipe for Middle Easternified pumpkin galette.
Chunky lentil vegetable soup
A hearty variation on the classic Turkish lentil soup, introducing a handful of seasonal vegetables and leaving the lentils chunky, too. A great way to turn the soup into a meal of its own!
Turkish braised celeriac (Zeytinyağlı kereviz)
It may not look or sound like something you’d want to make, but then Turks have never been ones for aesthetics. Hidden here is an incredible way to bring flavour out of humble vegetables, in a dish that’s perfect alongside fish, though it can also be eaten as a main course or as one of several dishes.
Turkish moussaka (Musakka)
Moussaka isn’t just Greek – in fact the Greek version is most likely the youngest addition to this family of dishes that exists in various forms across the Eastern Mediterranean. The Turkish version is more of a stew, incorporating aubergines and meat in a tomato sauce. Delicious for midweek supper!
Turkish quince dessert (Ayva tatlısı)
Autumn means quince season. In Turkey, it’s mostly used to make this simple dessert, braised in a sweet syrup until tender, then served with kaymak (clotted cream) and a cup of strong black tea. A delicious winter dessert!
🔜 Coming Friday for paying subscribers:
Pumpkin galette with feta & za’atar
A beautiful blend of the Western and Eastern Mediterranean, this has become one of my favourite things to make with pumpkin since I first made it a couple of years ago.
This recipe will be for paying subscribers. Paid subscriptions keep the newsletters coming, but are completely optional. If you wish to support my work and receive complementary recipes every week, please consider becoming a paying subscriber for only US$6/month or US$50/year (or local currency equivalent).
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With best wishes from Istanbul,
Vidar