Börek with ground beef & feta
My current favourite way of enjoying börek.
On the streets of Istanbul, a börek bakery is never far away.
Their presence is in fact a relic of Ottoman times. The cooks of the palace kitchens were highly specialised, and when they all became unemployed at the collapse of the empire, they continued their skill in the private market. The meatball makers started small köfte eateries, the baklava makers dessert shops, and the börek makers – you guessed it – börek bakeries.
Börek is a stuffed savoury pastry that’s popular across much of formerly Ottoman lands. It’s a delectable treat, but – unfortunately – many of today’s börek bakeries use cheap fats and are stingy with their fillings. There are, of course, exceptions. But all too often, börek on the go is a greasy and plain affair.
So while there’s börek to be had on virtually every corner of Istnabul, I find myself walking past them all, opting instead to make my own at home. Much tastier!
There are a myriad of varieties, but these days I find myself obsessed with kol böreği, which translates as “arm börek”. It’s basically long and crispy börek rolls, squeezed up next to each other like an advanced game of snake.
Since this shape holds the filling well, it’s excellent for meat fillings. The traditional versions are simple, with little more to it than minced meat, onions and a generous pinch or two of black pepper. I like adding feta cheese and parsley to mine, for an extra flavour oomph.
Shaping it is easy. Just wet the pastry, put on some filling and roll it up. I’ve included pictures below the recipe for guidance.
It’s best to use the larger sheets of filo pastry known in Turkish as böreklik yufka when making savoury börek. These are large and circular, weighing in at around 150 grams (5 oz) each. Check your favourite Middle Eastern grocer – they might stock it!
If you can only find the much thinner, rectangular filo pastry that is often more commonly available in Western countries, you may use those too, though the end result will be a lot crumblier. i therefore recommend adding a little milk to the liquid mixture to offset some of this. Cooking times may also differ. Please see the notes below the recipe if this is what you’ll be using.
Serve the börek still warm, with a generous dollop of Greek or Turkish style yoghurt and fresh salad of your choice. And why not a glass of ayran?
Hope you’ll enjoy it as much as I do!
Vidar 🧿
Börek with Minced Meat & Feta Cheese (Kıymalı Peynirli Kol Böreği)
Lunch or dinner | Turkish inspired | 1 hour 15 minutes | Serves 6